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The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Authors Imprint Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation, which was established to support exceptional scholarship by first-time authors. Pricing Beauty This page intentionally left blank Pricing Beauty The Making of a Fashion Model Ashley Mears University of California Press Berkeley • Los Angeles • London University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu. University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd. London, England © 2011 by The Regents of the University of California Photographs courtesy of Beowulf Sheehan, except as noted. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Mears, Ashley, 1980Pricing beauty : the making of a fashion model / Ashley Mears. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-520-26033-7 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-520-27076-3 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Models (Persons) 2. Modeling agencies. 3. Fashion shows. I. Title. HD8039.M77M43 2011 338.4'774692—dc22 2011006003 Manufactured in the United States of America 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 12 11 This book is printed on Cascades Enviro 100, a 100% post consumer waste, recycled, de-inked fiber. FSC recycled certified and processed chlorine free. It is acid free, Ecologo certified, and manufactured by BioGas energy. To Jennifer This page intentionally left blank Contents List of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Entry Economics of the Catwalk Becoming a Look The Tastemakers Size Zero High-End Ethnic Runway to Gender Exit Appendix: The Precarious Labor of Ethnography Notes Bibliography Index ix xi 1 27 71 121 170 209 249 263 267 283 297